12/21/2023 0 Comments Panolapse alternitiveIf it was my money and looking to do it on the cheap I'd get a Canon P&S one with manual mode and manual focus, personality I'd just get something used. It only takes pictures when something is moving and I combined them for a timelapse or use the stills. I've set it up for motion and left the camera out to get some animals. You can run motion detection scripts too. I've never done a canon hack but it's an interesting idea ! There's lots of advantages To creating a timelapse in post like batch editing, deflicker, zoom, pan, blending exposure and color temp. Of course that won't do in camera video, well the cell phone could. That's going to give you the best image quality and you might get some motion blur on fast moving people but they won't disappear into smudges.What about getting a Canon Point and Shoot or older DSLR and installing the hack CHDK and running an intervalometer script? Maybe even an old cell phone and a timelapse app. In your tests go for an exposure that's going to give you a shutter speed that stays above 1/20th at the darkest point of the session and let it go as high as it need to during the brighter parts of the shoot. If I were shooting it I would use aperture priority, fixed ISO and WB. If you are shooting at 24fps a more normal shutter speed would be 1/50th. The problem with small apertures is that the lens doesn't stop down to exactly the same point every time, the smaller the aperture the more the inconsistencies show up which can give you flickering. With careful focusing and use of hyperfocal distance you may be able to use the widest aperture you have. Use the widest aperture you can while getting the DOF you want. Manual focus your lens so that the lens isn't re-focusing every time. The RAWBlend with help will also help with the exposure fluctuations caused by mains lighting flicker. It's much better to shoot everything in manual and raw. You might want to think about mains power or an extended battery pack so that you don't have to swap batteries half way through. That all sounds basically OK but from experience I would suggest, Please let me know if I am miles out on any of the above thinking, it is something I need to get right, but only have one chance! I cannot get into that venue until the day before so may have to get a nd filter incase! Any advice on this would be appreciated, going to try 1s to start when practising. The last thing is shutter speed, the 180 degree rule I have read about says it should be about 7.5 seconds, but I think I could get arms disappearing of the person being a smudge in some shots. At 24 fps it would give a 50 second video, which I could speed up without issue in post. Was thinking a shot every 15 seconds, so 1200 total. Aperture probably f8 - f11 (to get the best out of the lens). I am sure I can set the min and max iso values available for auto iso, so still have some control. It is indoors but there are opaque panels in the roof so ideally would have auto iso to deal with the fluctuations in brightness over the 5 hours (it runs from 2pm to 7pm beginning of July). It will also let me snap at the full 24mp so I can add some movement (zoom/pan) to a 1080 video because of the extra resolution. this way I could take more than I need and have more speed control in post. I will be running a few trials beforehand, but my gut instinct is to buy an intervalometer to snap the pics as stills and put them together afterwards. Will be using my spare camera, canon 77d which has a built in time-lapse feature, I think it outputs a. It is next to a mezzanine so the camera/tripod can be up high looking down on the scene. It will be 5 hours of someone laying a pice of floor art in LVT. I have a job coming up that will have part of it lending itself perfectly to a time lapse.
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