12/21/2023 0 Comments Sterndrive vs inboard![]() As I menioned, I have been in the same boat with samller engines and V-drives. I can work on my engines easily, and service items that Frank mentioned are all well within reach. I'll disagree with Frank on the serviceability of sterndrives in boats 30-35 feet. I have openly stated on this forum that I would not own Bravo III's if I was slipped in saltwater. So, if you don't know what you are doing, don't try to fix them youself.Ĭorrosion is a very real issue with outdrives, especially in salt. Repairing outdrives is not overly complicated, but there is very little room for error. So, if you don't have a means to do that conveniently, that will be a challenge. The key is the boat has to be out of the water. In Florida and other saltwater areas, outdrives are a big liability. In AZ, NV, CO, NM, UT the outdrives have no value disadvantage, and often take more money. Sure, you have more room in front of the engines on an i/o, but that doesn't help with plug changes, started maintenance/repairs, manifold/riser maintenance.and what about all the i/o specific stuff (trim pump, trim switch relays, shift linkage, etc.) located behind the engines?įinally, ask yourself if you are going to save enough fuel with i/o's to pay the added $2000-$2500/year in maintenance.įrank makes good points. Interior working space varies by boat model, but beam is the gotcha. Or, do you want a low maintenance propulsion system you can maintain yourself? Do you want a boat that handles in an easy and predictable manner? There is also a point at which i/o begin to negatively affect resale ability and values.in Sea Rays, somewhere at the 32 to 34 ft point, there is significantly less demand for i/o's than for inboards. having the power transmission equipment inside the boat in a dry area? Do you want to buy into the need to have a trained service technician service your outdrives every year? Do you want the added risk of expensive physical damage if you hit a log or stump.you might damage a prop on a v-drive ($300 at the prop shop) but you can total a $3500 outdrive with the same type event. In deciding upon which drive system your need consider these questions: Do you really need the last 4-5 mph of speed? Do you really want 2 gear cases with 3 power transmission direction changes running under water, along with the added risk for mechanical failure, leaks, seal failure, tilt/trim woes, etc, vs. Both drives have to be removed and serviced every year, but with inboards, service is just replacing the transmission fluid and either washing or replacing the filter. ![]() But, there is a trade off in maintenance cost with i/o's. The reason is added fixed drag of the rudders, shafts, struts and props on v-drives. It is only when you run at high speeds that the i/o is superior. When you run the i/o and v-drive boats at normal cruise speeds, the curves are fairly close together. While the specs may show that the i/o boats are faster and a little more efficient, in actual real world experience, the speed and efficiency curves begin at the same point then diverge as rpm's goes up.
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